Affordable Riviera Nayarit: Bargains beyond the big resorts

The word “riviera” sparks instant thoughts of luxury and privilege. It’s where well-heeled French vacationers have holidayed for centuries, and in Mexico, the Riviera Maya has been attracting luxe-loving tourists for decades. The newest riviera destination is Riviera Nayarit, on the Pacific coast of Mexico. While Riviera Nayarit was initially promoted as a luxury getaway, it’s now garnering attention as a well-rounded destination with appeal for all types of travelers, including those on a budget.

During my travels in the region, I thoroughly enjoyed my stays at over-the-top resorts such as St. Regis Punta Mita, and Imanta Resort. But I was even more impressed by the simple pleasures to be found in laid-back towns like Sayulita and San Francisco (San Pancho to the locals). Here are some tips on how a traveler with limited funds can make the most of their time visiting Riviera Nayarit.

Mexicans love to eat out, which often means grabbing a bite from a street vendor. Travelers in towns like Sayulita can score a fish taco for $1, or opt for more exotic street fare, like a fresh fruit salad dusted with spicy Tajín. One of the most enterprising vendors I saw was in San Francisco — he was selling an assortment of Mexican sweet bread from the trunk of his car. Look around for the busiest vendors, the ones Mexicans frequent; this is often where the finest street food is being served. It’s possible to eat very well in Riviera Nayarit for $10 to $15 a day, leaving plenty of room in a budget for splurging once in a while on a sit-down restaurant meal.

I can recommend Don Pedro’s in Sayulita for such a meal, where you’ll be right on Sayulita’s main beach, which is always lively with surfers, people strumming guitars, friendly dogs, and little kids playing at the edge of the ocean. Get one of the tables inside the restaurant that look out on the beach, order up some ceviche and cerveza and enjoy the show.

While Riviera Nayarit has championship golf courses, marinas filled with yachts, and sophisticated spas, it also has plenty of options for simple pleasures.

Nature lovers can venture north to La Tovara National Park in San Blas, which lies about 100 miles north of Puerto Vallarta. This eco-region has special appeal for birdwatchers, since it is a refuge for 80% of the Pacific migratory shore bird populations, with over 500 species of birds calling the park home throughout the year.

The northern part of Riviera Nayarit is less developed for tourism, meaning there are lots of good values to be found, especially in small hotels and restaurants frequented by locals. Northern Riviera Nayarit is also the site of Playa Novillero, Mexico’s longest beach — an astounding 51 miles long.

Use some of your savings for a boat trip out to Marietta Islands National Park to view seabirds and, in season, thrill to whales breaching in clear sight. Many of these trips include a visit to the region’s iconic sight, Hidden Beach, which is accessed by swimming under a rock arch-like entryway. In order to protect its delicate ecology, Hidden Beach is temporarily off-limits to viewers; travelers should check in advance of their visit if they have their hearts set on experiencing it.

One of the most captivating aspects of traveling to Riviera Nayarit is its indigenous Huichol Indians, who have made the region their home for over 15,000 years. While the Huichols are on the shy side, this shyness doesn’t extend to their vibrant artwork, which is given a psychedelic boost from the ceremonial use of peyote.  The Huichol’s intricate beadwork is amazing, and can be purchased at affordable prices. The Huichols often sell their wares in Sayulita’s main square. For an immersive look into the world of Huichol art and culture, dip into the free Huichol Museum in Sayulita.

There are plenty of options for accommodations in boutique hotels, especially in Sayulita and San Francisco. A personal favorite is Hotel Cielo Rojo on San Francisco’s main street. The antique-filled rooms are reasonably priced, there’s a fantastic onsite restaurant, Bistro Organico, and it’s only a few blocks from the beach.

A simple way to add value to a Riviera Nayarit vacation is to schedule your trip to coincide with a special event, such as the annual Corn Festival in the town of Jala. The traditional festival has contests for the longest ear of corn, all while offering lots of local cuisine, music and dance performances, fireworks, and the spectacle of jaripeos (bull riding).

If you’re the kind of budget traveler energized by a day on the beach, entranced by indigenous culture, and content with a $1 fish taco superior to anything you might find in the U.S., Riviera Nayarit is your kind of place.